Brixie slept with me in bed again tonight, but in her own sleeping bag, or rather, on top of it. When we got to the room yesterday, I was worried our stuff wouldn’t dry by morning – the heating was completely cold. But the night taught me a lesson! It was so hot, it was almost impossible to breathe. I thought about opening the window. But I wasn’t sure how the girls were doing, so I didn’t. This morning, I found out the girls felt exactly the same. 😁
I took some photos of the view from the window last night.
This morning, the view was quite different… It was raining, windy, foggy everywhere. Honestly, it was so miserable you wouldn’t send a dog out in it.
A Morning of Uncertainty and Rain on the Stezka Českem
As far as I know, it’s been raining since last night. But we have to hit the trail. We probably won’t see much from Sněžka, which is where we’re supposed to be heading today. The weather forecast for today isn’t promising any improvement, but we’ll see. We don’t have many other options, do we?
Will we make it all the way to Žacléř? And what then? Brixie seems pretty done. Plus, I only have enough kibble for her until Saturday breakfast, so I desperately need to get her more.
We set off in complete fog and walk like this for about two hours.
Then, it starts to rain lightly for five minutes. After another hour, the rain really kicks in, just like yesterday. My feet, socks, and boots are completely soaked again. Good thing both Brixie and I are wearing ponchos now.
The Polední stones are beautiful, even in this weather. But the fog and especially the really strong wind are unpleasant. Before the rain started, it was great – different, adventurous. You felt like you weren’t even in the Czech Republic.
Battling Fog and Wind on the Way to Sněžka (Stezka Českem)
An Unexpected Stop and a Change of Plans
After the rain, we ducked into a cottage on the Polish side in Obří důl. We waited about an hour for the worst to pass. The data signal here is useless.
So, I call home for advice. They say the weather’s supposed to clear up for an hour, then get bad again. The next few hours, especially tonight and tomorrow morning, are supposed to be very rainy with thunderstorms. Damn, what are we going to do now?
I look out the window – it’s not raining! We quickly get dressed and head towards Sněžka. We can’t see a thing, just fog.
The wind is strong, and at first, as it hit me and I was wearing wet clothes… well, my teeth were chattering pretty hard. Fortunately, I warmed up a bit during the climb up Sněžka.
The wind keeps getting stronger, and I’m struggling to stay on my feet. Thank goodness for trekking poles! I have to stop to catch my breath.
Brixie is incredible! She’s been with me the whole way on the Stezka Českem, and she’s a true partner!
The Ascent to Sněžka and Descent in Tough Conditions
On the way, we encounter snow again. On Sněžka and then during the descent, there are still quite large snowfields.
A summit photo for Brixie!
We’re heading towards Jelenka. It starts raining again, and sharp hailstones like needles are falling, with the wind adding to the misery. A real massacre!
Jelenka and Thoughts on the Next Move
The rain is slowly stopping. Now we’re just walking on a muddy path. Surprisingly, Jelenka is quite crowded, but we still find a nice spot.
I have some bean soup and a beer. Brixie gets bread, water, and a treat. She’s lying under the table, resting. I don’t linger too long because more and more people are arriving. I meet quite a few tourists on the way, which surprises me – most are heading uphill.
I figure we could make it to Žacléř today on our Stezka Českem and finish this stage. So, we push on as hard as we can. We still have quite a few kilometers ahead of us, but the weather is starting to improve.
An Unexpected End to the Stezka Českem Stage in Horní Malá Úpa
When I arrive in Horní Malá Úpa, I discover an unwelcome fact: the path I’m supposed to take is closed until May 31st due to capercaillie nesting. I ponder this for a while. I definitely don’t want to disturb them, and the thought of a 100,000 CZK fine is also a pretty strong deterrent.
The Decision and the Journey Home
I look for accommodation in Žacléř. Nothing. No place that allows dogs. Well, what now? I try to consider all options. Stay here overnight? It’s only three in the afternoon. Then walk to Žacléř tomorrow in the rain and look for transport home? Accommodation here in Horní Malá Úpa is around 2,000 CZK. 😟
I check the transport options home. Not great, but something should be running. So, we head to the bus stop, where we dry off for about 30 minutes while waiting. Yes, the decision is made – we’re packing it in and heading home.
Walking in the rain, completely soaked, especially with my partner and the remaining roughly 12 km to Žacléř, just doesn’t make sense. We’ll try again another time 🙂, maybe even with the next stage of the Stezka Českem.
We manage to catch the bus and train from Svoboda nad Úpou perfectly. We’re heading to Hradec Králové, where we’re supposed to change trains. But that train has a diversion to Poděbrady, so we’ll be taking a bus again. I’m curious what this ride will be like.
Brixie is clearly at her limit.
It wouldn’t be Czech Railways if we arrived on time, would it? 😁 We arrive in Hradec Králové four minutes late. I sprint to find the bus. Crowds of people are pouring into the station hall, but in such a way that no one is coming out. But I’m not deterred and push through the “enemy” like a tank, blocking my way to catch the connection.
Luckily, I find the bus easily, and it’s still waiting. There are even two buses running. Some intuition tells me to get on the second one. I’m glad I did – besides us, there are only about four other people on it. We have a calm and fast ride on the highway to Poděbrady. For a moment, I even close my eyes. I don’t think I’m sleeping, but who knows? The transfer back to the train in Poděbrady goes smoothly.
Reflections on the Way Home and Future Plans
During the journey home, the past few days on the Stezka Českem flash through my mind. It was great!
Earlier this afternoon, I was thinking about canceling my vacation next week and going back to work. But if the bad weather is only in the mountains, why not plan a trip somewhere lower?
Daily Summary:
- Distance covered today: 24.05 km
- Time on the trail: 7:14
- Elevation gain: ⬆️ 720 m, ⬇️ 1185 m
- Total distance on Stezka Českem (Stage IV): 114.35 km
- Weather: Fog, rain (heavy at times), strong wind, hail, later improved.
- Highlight of the day: The ascent to Sněžka in extreme weather with Brixie, followed by the unexpected decision to end the stage due to weather and road closure.
- Interesting encounters: Quite a few tourists at Jelenka and on the way to Sněžka.
- Food supply status: Brixie’s kibble is running low (max until Saturday breakfast).
Can you guess where our next steps will lead? And will our Stezka Českem story even continue? Follow us!
