Czechia Trail: Stage III, Day 1

Early Start and the Haul to Děčín

Should I even call this Day 1? Maybe it was more like Day Zero. I kicked things off yesterday, actually, shuttling the family to the cabin instead of an early morning departure from home. My pack wasn’t perfectly dialed in, but I figured I had the essentials. What I didn’t have, I simply didn’t have. So, I rolled out of the cabin at 6:45 AM, aiming to catch my train. On the way, a roe deer and two herons kept me company for a bit, flitting ahead of me. The train journey morphed into a bus-and-train combo. I even managed to snag a quick nap. I used the travel time to sort out some last-minute errands: grabbed cash, a Coke, lip balm, some trail snacks, and a pouch of tobacco – just for testing, you know. Bonus: scored a free Red Bull. At the station, I topped off my water bladder – hoping it was potable – then hopped on the final train to Děčín – Dolní Žleb.

Ferry Across the Elbe and First Hurdles

I crossed the Elbe (Labe) by ferry without a hitch. Mid-crossing, the ferryman decided he wanted to chat about the war in Ukraine. His take – that the Americans were to blame for everything – definitely caught me off guard. Argue with him? Pointless. I just nodded and filed it under ‘another perspective.’

A ferry boat crossing the Elbe river in Czechia.

Weather Turns Sour at Belveder

After the climb up to Belveder, the sky started spitting. The forecast had promised a proper downpour, so I decided to hunker down at a nearby stand. Good call – the heavens opened up with a vengeance: heavy rain, thunder, lightning, and wind. I grabbed a small beer and a meatloaf in a bun, waiting for the storm to blow over. The radar said it should clear up around 2:30 PM.

A view from Belveder, overlooking the Elbe river valley during a storm.
A small beer and a meatloaf in a bun on a table at a stand.

Pushing On Through Hřensko

By 3:15 PM, I hit Hřensko, and the rain decided to unleash itself again. Luckily, I found shelter under the roof of a parking attendant’s booth.

A view of the wet streets of Hřensko during heavy rain.
A close-up of a wet street sign in Hřensko.

Eventually, navigating past Pravčická brána (Pravčice Gate) and a few confusing turns, I finally rolled into Mezní louka. I checked into Fořt’s Lodge, hit the shower, changed into some dry clothes, and capped the day with dinner and two well-earned beers. I was out like a light, happy as a clam.

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