I’m pretty sure the sleep deprivation on the Stezka Českem is going to catch up with me soon. No doubt about it, especially after we really pushed it yesterday with Brixie. The bed was nice, I even had five to choose from in the room! I decided to give Brixie some comfort too. I made her a spot on my bed, in her sleeping bag, so she slept with me. Since I’m paying for her, she might as well enjoy it, right? Her sleeping bag thankfully helped keep the bed clean.
The mattress was nicely firm this time, which was good. The pillow, as usual on trips, wasn’t quite my cup of tea, but what can you do. Still, I don’t feel fully rested. Bummer! I had to hit the WC a few more times, which was a bit more complicated today because the toilets and showers were shared down the hall.
Stezka Českem: Early Start and Breakfast Under Rain Clouds
We’re up at six AM, taking Brixie for a quick walk
and then hanging around reception waiting for Wi-Fi. What would we even do without it these days, right?
Breakfast starts at 7:30, and I want to be there early to get a head start. The forecast for today is heavy rain, so I’m hoping we can cover as many kilometers as possible while it’s still dry. Breakfast was good, typical hotel fare. Yesterday’s felt a bit more personal and cozy. We set off at 8:45 towards Mumlavské vodopády, thankfully still dry.
Stezka Českem: Battling the Rain to Labská bouda
The Stezka Českem idyll didn’t last long, though – by 9:15, we’re pulling on our rain gear and hiking through the downpour.
At 10:20, we take a short break for snacks under the Krakonošova snídaně shelter, and at 10:35, we press on. It’s raining intermittently, sometimes light, sometimes heavy – who knew those could coexist? – but mostly just relentlessly, all the way to Labská bouda.
We’re soaked to the bone, but Brixie’s rain jacket is working like a charm, which makes me incredibly happy. Passing the Elbe spring, we arrive at Labská bouda around 12:15. We ditch the raincoats immediately and head inside to warm up with soup and bread (one each, Brixie included) and tea. We devour every bite; hot food hit the spot like nothing else.
Stezka Českem: Unexpected Encounter and a Shared Path to Odrodzenie
I manage to get a signal and frantically start thinking about what’s next on our Stezka Českem. The weather is truly miserable. How much we could use some warmth and a chance to dry our gear right now? I’m looking for accommodation options, but the prices at Labská are astronomical. At a nearby table, I spot a girl with a dog and a big backpack. I go over to ask if she’s also hiking the Stezka Českem. Yes! She’s heading the same way and facing the exact same problem. Katka, as she introduced herself, is also fruitlessly searching for a roof over her head.
We agree it’s worth a shot to try our luck at Bradlerovy boudy. We set off around 13:45 in a light drizzle. After a while, the rain stops, and the sun even peeks out occasionally. The clouds are still scudding by, but it’s not raining. We arrive at Bradlerovy boudy surprisingly early, around three in the afternoon. We’ve only covered 18 km so far. I’m keen to push on further, maybe all the way to Špindlerovka. There’s supposed to be a cheaper hut, Odrodzenie, on the Polish side. Katka chimes in, saying she’ll try it with me.
At 16:00, it starts raining again near Petrovka. And this time, it’s serious! We don’t give up and keep going. Just before five, we arrive at the Odrodzenie hut. Katka heads to reception first. The news isn’t good: they have one last room available! What now? I quickly check the weather forecast – another downpour is rolling in. Without hesitation, we agree to take the room together. It’s for five people, with a shared toilet and bathroom down the hall. We’ll manage, right?
Daily Summary:
- Kilometers Today: 23.78 km (in about 8 hours)
- Total Distance on Stezka Českem (Stage IV): 90.3 km
- Ascent: 1016 m
- Descent: 473 m
- Highlight of the Day: The unexpected meeting with Katka and the decision to share a room in a pinch. And of course, Brixie’s perfectly functioning rain jacket!
- Weather: Mostly rain (light, heavy, persistent), brief sunny spells, heavy rain again in the afternoon.
- Encounters: Katka, a fellow hiker with her dog.
Despite the bad weather and fatigue, today on the Stezka Českem brought new encounters and a glimmer of hope for some comfort. How will we fare sharing a room, and what will tomorrow bring? Follow our next steps!
