Sleep was solid, earplugs were the MVPs. I’ve been up since six, and breakfast kicks off at 7:30. By then, I’m already geared up and packed, ready to hit the trail right after grub. Just savoring one last peek out the window
and after breakfast, at 7:55, I’m off to chase adventure.
A little while after starting, a light drizzle began, quickly picking up intensity. So, I swapped my jacket for the rain gear – quick change, instantly felt better. Grinning from ear to ear – finally on the trail! Love this feeling of freedom. A park patrol car rolled by, we exchanged waves, and I pushed deeper into the wild.
Barefoot on the Beaches of Fisherman’s Trail
After about four kilometers of beach walking, the rain called it quits. I reached a spot where a small creek spilled into the Atlantic. Danced around for a bit, looking for the best crossing, then realized the easiest way was just to ditch the boots. I crossed the water closest to the ocean, then enjoyed another kilometer barefoot in the sand. Pure bliss!
I hopped onto a wooden boardwalk towards a nearby restaurant, but it was shut tight – guess the season hasn’t kicked off yet. I used the break to properly dry my feet. Gotta get all that sand off; nobody wants unnecessary blisters, right? That whole ritual took about 40 minutes, but the payoff was worth the patience.
Between Rain and Sunshine
I pushed on along the coast, where sandy beaches gave way to cliffs and rock formations of all shapes. The further south I headed, the more surfers I spotted riding the waves. Around half past noon, the drizzle decided to make a comeback. Didn’t even bother with the jacket this time; I was too busy marveling at this weird phenomenon: inland to my left, the sky was thick with clouds and rain poured down, while to my right, the ocean side, sunshine blazed. Basically, it was only raining on half of me!
Lunch break meant a baguette and guacamole on a bench. The baguette was tough as nails, but hunger always wins. I saved the second baguette for dinner, figuring it’d probably be inedible by tomorrow. By 1:30 PM, I was unlocking the door to my digs in Vila Nova de Milfontes. Now what to do with the rest of the afternoon?
Planning and Logistics Headaches
I headed out to scout the town and find the ferry. It’s supposed to run from 8:30 AM, even though I’d planned an earlier start. Can’t be helped, I’ll just have to wait. I checked out Arcanjo
and just kinda milled around. After a shower, though, fatigue hit hard – probably from the sudden lack of doing anything.
While planning for tomorrow, I found out accommodations are pretty booked up, even in the off-season. So, I’m looking at a hefty chunk of kilometers – about 37 km all the way to Apartamentos na Quinta Altavista do Carvalhal (a name I can’t even pronounce!). Guess I’d better plan a few more days ahead, or I won’t find a bed at a decent price. Honestly, all this forced booking kinda spoils that initial feeling of absolute freedom. But hey, what can you do? Onward!
Daily Summary:
- Today’s Miles: 21.34 km (warm-up day)
- Day’s Highlight: Barefoot creek crossing and finding a bamboo trekking pole.
- Weather: Mixed bag – rain from inland, sun from the ocean.
- Interesting Encounters: A rabbit, a hunting stork, horses, and sheep on the town’s edge.
- Supplies Check: Baguette and guacamole (dinner sorted).
- Accommodation: Pirata Hostels in Vila Nova de Milfontes.
Tomorrow, I’m facing a tough 37 km. Got any tried-and-true tips for staying motivated when you’ve got that many kilometers of challenging terrain ahead? Share ’em in the comments!
Finally, a few photos
