Last night, as I mapped out the next leg of the trail, finishing off my guacamole baguette, a sudden chill hit me. I burrowed under the duvet and was out cold in no time. This morning, I found out I’d been sharing the room with a Polish hiker, and a Czech woman had arrived late last night too.
Breakfast in the communal kitchen was a proper international summit – a Slovak, a German, a Dutch woman, and us two Czechs. The Slovak and Czech pair were heading the opposite direction, finishing their trek in Porto Covo today. The German, on his bike, was en route from Marrakesh all the way to France. The Dutch hiker was heading south, just like me. It’s wild how many stories converge in such a small space, isn’t it?
Morning Ferry and First Miles Along the Ocean
I left the accommodation a little after 8 AM. At 8:41, I crossed the river on a ferry, sharing the ride with another hiker from Germany. For 5 euros, we got not just the ride to the other bank, but also a hot drink – I opted for tea. It was an unexpectedly welcome bit of trail magic to kick off the day. Today, the Fisherman’s Trail once again hugs the ocean, but the landscape shifts a bit. The path occasionally ducks behind sandy dunes, so at times I couldn’t even hear the waves. Still, I was cruising along.
By 10:35, I’d already logged the first 11 kilometers. I treated myself to a short twenty-minute break with a killer view. Off came the boots to let my feet and socks air out, I refilled my water, and grabbed a protein bar. Twenty minutes was all it took to recharge, and then I was back on the trail.
Trekking Pole Shenanigans, River Fording, and PCT Flashbacks
I stumbled upon a new bamboo pole, so now I had two. That came in handy sooner than I expected. Because, once again, I found myself fording a river that spilled across the beach into the ocean. Luckily, with the help of both poles and some well-placed rocks, I managed to cross to the other side completely dry!
Then, around the nineteen-kilometer mark, I had a slightly unfortunate idea. I wanted to trim my original bamboo pole, cutting off the root to match the size of the new one. Unfortunately, the bamboo splintered when I tried to shorten it, leaving me with just one pole again. Oh well, can’t win ’em all. I pushed on with just one.
Today’s trek strongly reminded me of the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) back in the States. The only difference is that here, I’m battling much deeper sand, and the ocean roars directly below the cliffs. It’s absolutely stunning! I love watching the raw power of the water and breathing in that salty air. I continued on, a mix of coastline and beautiful eucalyptus groves.
Refuel in Zambujeira do Mar and Day’s End
I stopped at a bistro for an orange juice. Actually, I should probably call it a “freshie,” because they brought me a glass straight from freshly squeezed oranges. I also grabbed a Coca-Cola for the road, and later, I had to admit, it really hit the spot. In the town of Zambujeira do Mar, I restocked on water, dinner, and breakfast for tomorrow at the shop.
At 4:40 PM, I arrived at my accommodation. Nobody was there, so I messaged the contact number. Fifteen minutes later, a woman arrived, and we filled out the necessary paperwork. Her English was about on par with mine, but we managed to communicate with a bit of gesturing. Her colleague arrived shortly after, we finished check-in, and I finally got to indulge in a shower. I even arranged for laundry – my shirt and socks definitely deserved that service after today.
Daily Summary:
- Today’s Miles: 37.72 km
- Total Distance on Fisherman’s Trail: 59.06 km
- Highlight of the Day: Morning tea on the ferry and successfully fording the river with dry feet.
- Weather: Perfect for hiking, clear and sunny.
- Supplies Status: Dinner and breakfast bought in Zambujeira do Mar.
- Accommodation: Apartamentos na Quinta Altavista do Carvalhal.
I can definitely feel almost 38 kilometers in my legs today, but that feeling of accomplishment is totally worth it. Now, time to plan the next few days, and then it’s just food and sleep. What about you and long stages? Do you prefer shorter strolls, or do you also love to push your limits like I did today? Share in the comments!
Finally, a few photos
