I actually slept pretty well, even if I woke up multiple times this morning. I tried to drift back to sleep at four, then five, then six, before finally getting up for good around seven. For breakfast, I just grabbed some tea, biscuits, and the fruit I had in my room – a banana and a couple of apples.
But checking my emails delivered a cold splash of reality. The accommodation I’d been eyeing in Carrapateira? Booked solid. On Booking.com, only scraps remained, starting at a whopping 150 euros and climbing. That definitely didn’t fit my budget. I’ll admit, it threw me off my game. This whole accommodation scramble is really putting a damper on my trail experience, and I’m kicking myself for not sorting it out sooner. But what can you do? Gotta keep moving.
Views That Never Get Old, and Unexpected Wildlife
Around eight, I finally hit the trail. I retraced my steps a short way from yesterday before linking back up with the Fisherman’s Trail. The walking felt great; the views out here just never get old. I really enjoyed today’s route, even if I was constantly wading through puddles and mud or scrambling over obstacles.
Today was all about the animals. I spotted gulls, tons of storks, and to my absolute shock – ostriches! The terrain was a mix of tolerable sand and sections where you sank deep. But the fun ended at Odeceixe. The river here is unfordable, so I had to hike all the way around it. That meant 11 kilometers on asphalt under the brutal midday sun! I swear I thought I’d melt right there in the heat.
Fatigue, Asphalt, and an Eco-Farm Finish
Today, the fatigue really hit me. The combo of hard roads – and there were more of them than I expected – plus the scorching sun really took its toll. The path was a constant up-and-down, which I actually enjoyed 🙂 On top of that, the unresolved accommodation issue keeps gnawing at me, and my hip’s starting to make itself known. Hopefully, tomorrow brings fewer miles so I can catch a bit of a break.
I rolled into today’s destination around 4 PM, with 32.15 kilometers under my belt. A growling dog and the owner, Viktor, greeted me. Luckily, the dog turned out to be a total sweetheart, and the whole place looks like a charming little eco-farm. So far, I’ve spotted geese, chickens, cats, and one very vocal rooster. It’s the kind of peace and quiet I desperately needed after today’s asphalt hell.
Daily Summary:
- Distance covered today: 32.15 km
- Total distance on Fisherman’s Trail: 91.21 km
- Day’s Highlight (or Lowlight?): Encountering ostriches and that endless 11 km slog on the scorching road near Odeceixe.
- Weather: Hot and harsh sun – more suited for the beach than the asphalt grind.
- Interesting Encounters: Ostriches, storks, Viktor, and the “sweetheart” dog at the eco-farm.
- Accommodation: Eco-farm (at Viktor’s).
Tomorrow, I’ve still got to crack that logistical puzzle of where to crash. Do you ever feel like the nitty-gritty details of a trip get in the way of truly soaking up nature? How do you tackle it? Share your tips in the comments!
And finally, a few photos from today’s grind.
