Up with the sun, or even before it. Definitely awake by six. I use the quiet time before breakfast to finally nail down the logistics for the next few days. The plan looks clear: today, Arrifana; tomorrow, Vila do Bispo, and from there, a bus to Sagres for the night. The following morning, I’ll bus back to hike that section into Sagres properly. Now I just need to figure out if I’ll push all the way to Lagos or split that last leg.
But first, I’ve gotta circle back to Viktor and his ecofarm, because that experience deserves its own spotlight. Dinner started innocently enough with a question about soup, but then Viktor just kept bringing out more: homemade bread, his own olive oil, roasted potatoes, tuna, olives straight from the tree, and scrambled eggs. Plus, sweet potatoes with cinnamon and wine. And breakfast? Warm rolls, strawberries, and even pancakes! For 50 euros for a private room with a bathroom, it’s hands down the best accommodation on the trail.
Hilly Terrain and the Aljezur Dilemma
Thanks to that epic spread, I don’t hit the trail until just before nine. I backtrack a bit, then pass through Rogil, where I stock up on water and grab some sweets. Today’s route, however, is a whole different beast from the previous days. The path climbs relentlessly, and I spend most of the day pounding pavement, which my feet aren’t exactly thrilled about in the muggy heat. The entire trail is gradually getting tougher, and every meter of elevation gain feels amplified in this humidity.
Before Aljezur, I faced a dilemma. Viktor had mentioned the river should be fordable, saving me a good chunk of miles. In the end, though, caution won out, and I opted for the safer route through town. That detour cost me some energy, but dry gear was worth every step.
Back to the Ocean and a Chat with AT Veterans
Finally, around the 20-kilometer mark, I hit the ocean again, sand crunching underfoot. The map tells me I’ve got another 7–8 kilometers to go. Along the way, I meet an interesting group of hikers from the USA. They’re older guys who’d crushed the legendary Appalachian Trail (AT). We swapped a few trail stories from the US before each continuing on our own way.
Around 3 PM, I rolled into Arrifana after 27 kilometers. Tonight, it’s a hostel and a shared dorm for six, so I’m curious how many bunkmates will show up. It’s funny, but German hikers have been my constant companions almost since day one. I hear German everywhere – in hostels, on the trail – it seems our neighbors really love this corner of Portugal.
Evening in Arrifana and Planning the Finish
First thing after arriving, I jump in the shower and then start hunting for food. Unfortunately, the kitchen doesn’t open until five, so for now, I’m just drying my towel and shirt on the bar terrace. My stomach’s rumbling, but at least I’ve got time to properly pore over the map.
My main mission for tonight is nailing down the final stretch of the trail. If all goes well, I’d love to catch the famous Arrifana sunset over the ocean. We’ll see if I’ve got any juice left after all those hills.
Daily Summary:
- Today’s distance: 27.02 km
- Total Fisherman’s Trail distance: 118.23 km
- Highlight of the day: The unbelievable feast at Viktor’s ecofarm.
- Weather: Overcast, muggy, and a hilly profile.
- Interesting encounters: Veterans from the Appalachian Trail (USA) and the ubiquitous German pilgrims.
- Accommodation: Hostel in Arrifana.
Today tested me with hills and asphalt, but getting back to the ocean always lifts my spirits. What’s the best trail grub you’ve ever had? Michelin star or a hidden gem ecofarm like mine? Let me know in the comments!
And finally, a few photos.
