I’ve been tossing and turning since five AM. By six, I’m definitely checking emails and starting to pack. My American bunkmate heads out first, and I follow close behind. To avoid disturbing the others in the room, I repack my backpack in the kitchen, grab a quick breakfast, and by 7:20 AM, I’m out the door. The sun’s been up for an hour, bathing the landscape in sharp morning light. Even with the sun, it’s still damn cold in the shade, especially when that fresh wind whips through me.
A glance at the map over breakfast made it clear: today was going to be a proper challenge. The route promised relentless ups and downs, totaling around 40 kilometers. My goal? Catch the bus from Vila do Bispo to Sagres, where I’ve got two nights of accommodation booked. I just hope they don’t kick me off the bus – after a full day on the trail, I’m probably smelling like a proper, well-earned hiker.
Morning Surf and Endless Dunes
After three kilometers, I hit the ocean. The sight of the wave-filled coast and the first morning surfers instantly puts a huge grin on my face. The sun’s already high, creating a fantastic scene I wish everyone could witness. I scramble down into a gully to the water, soak it in, then immediately start climbing again, turning inland.
Around the thirteenth kilometer, the path turns into deep sand. I draw close to the cliffs again, and a magnificent, giant beach opens up before me. To my right, the ocean roars; to my left, dunes stretch out in a light haze. At the end of the beach, I have to ford a river. This time, the boots had to come off, but the crossing went smoothly. I hike barefoot up to the cliffs, where I revel in the wind and utter peace. A quick foot clean, a protein bar, and I hustle on before the groups of German tourists catch up.
Sandy Climbs and a Test of Grit
At the 25-kilometer mark, the real “hell” begins – a brutal climb through deep sand. That really kicked my ass! In total, I faced five such killer climbs and descents today, including hopping over streams on stones. Luckily, all subsequent water crossings I managed with dry feet. Around the thirty-kilometer mark, I was already hoping the hills were done, but the last steep ascent really tested me one more time. Not in sand this time, but with an even steeper incline.
At 3:40 PM, I finally stand at the bus stop. I’ve got 37.4 km in my legs, and the bus arrives right on time. With a laugh, I realize I hiked uphill to the stop for absolutely no reason – the bus also stops down below, where I’d just passed. On the bus, I meet two Czechs, and as we get chatting, I almost miss my stop. In the end, I walk about 1.5 km back to my accommodation.
Hiker Trash Life in Sagres
After a shower, I head straight to the store, where I discover washing machines. Like a proper “hiker trash,” I’m now sitting on the curb in the sun, waiting for my clothes to wash. My socks will definitely thank me for this care, and not just the socks. On the way, I was struck by the number of camper vans parked along the coast. That “vanlife” looks like a great chill – just sitting, drinking coffee, and gazing at the ocean.
Today’s terrain, with its steep hills and crumbling rocks, strongly reminded me of the American PCT again. A lot of people skip the Vila do Bispo – Sagres section, saying it’s boring. Even on the bus, a little voice of doubt started to nag me, but then I thought: what’s a trail for if not to hike it all? I’m doing the whole damn thing. Only thing that slightly worries me is breakfast at the hostel – it’s not until 8:45 AM, which for a hiker is practically lunchtime!
Daily Summary:
- Today’s distance: 37.4 km
- Total distance on Fisherman’s Trail: 155.63 km
- Highlight of the day: Morning view of the surfers and the “hiker trash” chill at the laundromat in Sagres.
- Weather: Sunny, windy, but pleasant for walking.
- Supplies: Protein bar for lunch, shopping in Sagres sorted.
- Accommodation: Hostel in Sagres
It was a tough but great day. My legs are burning, but clean clothes and the view of tomorrow’s cliffs are keeping me going. What about you? Do you ever shorten routes when you hear they’re boring, or do you have to finish them all the way like me?
Finally, a few photos
