Worst night on the trail so far, hands down. Even though it was just two of us in a six-bed dorm, my bunkmate James rolled in late last night, bringing a thick boozy haze with him. Between the impossible-to-open window and a mattress that felt like a slab of concrete, sleep was a no-go. Still, James, the young lad from England, was up at six and out catching waves. Fair play to him!
Even though I’d been awake since six, I had to cool my heels for breakfast, which didn’t kick off until 8:45. I grabbed yogurt with fruit, bread, cheese, and a tomato. And for the first time on this trail, I had coffee – it was so sweet, I swear they dumped a ton of sugar in it. Yeah, breakfast was a bit of a time sink, but at least I hit the trail fueled up. My bus back to the route wasn’t until 10:10, so no rush today.
Logistics and a Ride I Didn’t Take (or Did I?)
While waiting at the bus stop, a young German woman asked if I wanted to share her Bolt ride to Vila do Bispo – she’d already booked it and offered it for free. I politely declined. Seemed pointless, as the bus was due any minute, according to the schedule. Of course, “any minute” turned into a fifteen-minute wait when the bus finally rolled in nine minutes late. Still, the ticket only cost 2.90 €, and I got to kick back and watch the scenery from the window.
I aimed for the same stop as yesterday, but couldn’t find a “stop” button on the bus. Turns out, like back home, these are request stops, so I overshot my mark and ended up getting off a bit further down the road. That tacked on an extra two kilometers of road walking. On the outskirts of town, I spotted a shepherd with two dogs, herding a massive, mixed flock of cows, goats, and sheep. What a sight! Soon, the asphalt gave way to a dusty, rocky track, and I pressed on.
Floral Scents and the Endless Ocean
It’s almost 11 AM, and the sun’s really starting to crank up. Inland, there’s zero shade, and I’m seriously impressed by how adapted the locals are to this heat. But as soon as I hit the coast, the air cools right down, and I’m hit with an unbelievable view: the ocean stretching out on both sides of the landmass! It’s immense, absolutely divine.
Today feels like a reward. I’m not rushing anywhere, and my accommodation is already sorted. The air shimmers with heat, everything’s in bloom, and the trail is thick with intense, sweet scents. Pure bliss. The map warns of some gnarly terrain tomorrow, but right now, I’m just soaking in the fact that I’ve only got two more days left on the trail.
Cabo de São Vicente Lighthouse: The Edge of the World, In Sight
At 1:45 PM, I reached the Cabo de São Vicente lighthouse. This beacon marks the southwesternmost tip of continental Europe – for ancient mariners, it truly was the end of the known world. It’s a beautiful spot, but sadly, it’s swamped with tourist crowds and souvenir stalls. Again, German tourists dominate the visitors, easily spotted on the trail by their signature ankle boots.
The rest of the trek to my accommodation turned into a playful but challenging mix of protruding rocks. It demanded focus and gave my ankles and thighs a real workout, but I loved it. Around 4 PM, I wrapped up today’s stage, with 24.29 kilometers under my belt.
Daily Summary:
- Kilometers hiked today: 24.29 km
- Total distance on Fisherman’s Trail: 179.92 km
- Highlight of the day: The incredible view of the ocean on both sides of the landmass, and visiting the Cabo de São Vicente lighthouse.
- Weather: Hot inland, refreshing breeze by the ocean.
- Supplies check: Lidl run, amazing dinner in Sagres.
- Accommodation: Hostel in Sagres (last night).
Today was all about soaking it in and chilling out. The sun’s slowly dipping, a cool wind is picking up, and I’m heading off to prep for tomorrow. It’s the penultimate day, and I can’t wait to see what the coast towards Lagos has in store. What’s your favorite “end of the world” spot? Drop me a line in the comments!
And finally, a few photos
