Slept better, finally adapting to local time, or maybe yesterday’s easier day helped. Though, truth be told, I still tossed and turned on those springy hotel beds, my shoulder aching. It doesn’t bother me much on the trail, but a night in a proper bed really did a number on it. Woke up, as usual, around six, got cleaned up, and figured I’d just hit the trail without breakfast.
But the hotel was locked up tight – reception and the kitchenette. Couldn’t even drop off my keys or fill up my water bottles. Eventually, everything opened up. I gave my glasses a proper scrub with some dish soap and could finally see again. By 8:45, I was digging into breakfast (bread, butter, cheese, yogurt, fruit), and by 9:15, I was off. Would that cheese and yogurt catch up to me on the trail?
Vibrant Sea Hues and Sandy Shores
Just 2.5 kilometers out of town, the beach opened up before me. I was cruising, picking the wet sand that carried me along perfectly. Saw two cuttlefish on the shore, or rather, their bones in those weird, papery casings. But what really blew me away were the colors of the sea.
The surface shimmered with every shade imaginable – from the palest light blue to a gorgeous azure, right down to deep, dark indigo. Stunning sandy beaches stretched out, and the water was crystal clear! It practically begged me to jump in right then and there. I stumbled upon countless beaches like these today. The Fisherman’s Trail was showing off its absolute best side. The path then undulated, rolling up and down. I passed mysterious, crumbling buildings inland, and by half past eleven, I realized I only had 12 kilometers under my belt. Felt great, and Lagos started gnawing at me. That’s another 27 kilometers – should I push for it today, take it on as a challenge?
Grinding Through Terrain and Inland Heat
But then came a real monster climb, a sharp reminder that this cliffside trail gives no quarter. Honestly, I’m not sure if going up or down is worse on the Fisherman’s Trail. Those descents are brutally tough on the legs. Loose rock, massive steps, and uneven surfaces – my ankles, knees, calves, and thighs were taking a beating like crazy.
Around the 15 km mark, I considered saving time by cutting straight up the cliff from the beach. But seeing the crumbling rocks and people bailing halfway, I wisely stuck to the safe, official detour. The landscape was unbelievably diverse. One minute you felt like you were in a desert with nothing around, the next you’d step into a shaded grove. Only for a few seconds of shade, mind you, but still. Even though it didn’t feel *that* hot, my water supply was vanishing before my eyes. Plus, it was incredibly buggy today – everything buzzed constantly around me, a relentless companion in the oppressive heat.
Trail Magic: Meeting the Ostravans
At 13:50, I rolled into Salema and bumped into two Czechs. A couple from Ostrava, they’d started their hike from Lagos. We grabbed a beer, chatted about the trail, and they assured me the rest was totally doable. That really fired me up. Salema was beautiful and authentic, unlike towns like Burgau or Luz, which felt a bit too primped and artificial. From four in the afternoon, the hiking was the best it had been all day – the sun wasn’t beating down as hard, I pulled off my hood, and just soaked in the pleasant breeze.
Lagos: Boardwalks to the Finish Line
At 17:50, I said goodbye to my faithful trekking pole, leaving it for other pilgrims to find.
I continued the remaining 5 kilometers along the wooden boardwalks that hug the cliffs around Lagos. The sun was slowly setting as I circled the entire town. Off the main path, countless smaller boardwalks branched out to viewpoints directly above the cliffs. I passed tons of people, but I didn’t care. At 18:50, I stood by the Statue of Saint Goncalo in Lagos. For me, that was the end of the Fisherman’s Trail. That was wild! I absolutely loved it. I suffered on those boardwalks, sure, but I was grinning ear to ear. And then other people started laughing too.
Well-Deserved Reward
Then it was just the trek to my accommodation, another almost 2 kilometers. On the way, I hit a Spar and grabbed my usual yogurt drink for dinner. It’s my go-to trail meal, a classic. Today, I doubted myself several times, wondering if I’d actually make it. But here I am, perhaps thanks to that chance encounter with the folks from Ostrava. All in all, I spent over 10 hours on the trail today, covering more than 45 kilometers. It’s unbelievable.
Daily Summary
- Distance covered today: 45.77 km
- Total time on trail: 10:07 hours
- Total distance on Fisherman’s Trail: approx. 225 km
- Highlight of the day: Those incredible sea colors (from azure to deep dark blue) and the feeling of triumph at the statue in Lagos.
- Weather: Sunny, buggy, refreshing wind in the afternoon.
Today was my longest day yet, and the doubts were real. What are your favorite ocean colors? Would you be tempted to jump into that clear water, even with your pack on? Share your experiences in the comments!
A few photos to wrap things up
